Making your own fuel lines may sound difficult, or even scary, but it’s actually pretty easy and fairly safe. Whether you need a new fuel line as a part of a restoration project, or are trying to prep for a larger turbo charger, braided lines are worth considering. While not as strong as solid steel or aluminum lines, braided lines offer more strength than standard rubber fuel lines with the same flexibility. That means that you can use it in places that have to compensate for engine movement, such as supply and return lines on your fuel rail. The added strength helps support higher fuel pressures that are common in high performance engines, particularly turbo and super charged engines.
Right now, I’m getting ready to install an AFPR (Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator) I picked up in a classified ad over at DSMTuners. The factory regulator mounts directly to the fuel rail. To remove it and upgrade to an adjustable one, we’ll need to create a new fuel line connecting the new AFPR mounted on the firewall to the existing fuel rail mounted between the head and intake manifold. To do this, we’ll replace the stock FPR with an adapter on the rail which adapts the rail for -6AN fittings. Then, we’ll mount another -6AN connector onto the new AFPR. To connect the two, we’ll need to create a -6AN fuel line long enough to reach from the fuel line to the spot on the firewall where we’ll mount the AFPR. For those unfamiliar with the term AN, it stands for ARMY/NAVY and is a sizing standard developed by armed forces. It’s commonly used in fuel, transmission, and vacuum lines in performance applications as opposed to NPT sizes, which are common in both air tools and factory line sizes.
- Some tape – This will keep the hose end from fraying when we cut it
- Something to cut the line with (preferably a dremel or other high speed cutter for stainless braiding, but tin snips will do for nylon braiding)
- A tape measure
- 2 -6AN hose ends – I used one straight hose end and one 90 degree end
- A –6AN wrench – I used a crescent wrench, but that was a mistake as you’ll see in the video
- A bench mounted vise
- Aluminum vise jaw pads – I made some with angled aluminum I had laying around, but it’s cheaper to just buy them if you don’t already have scrap aluminum to use
- –6AN Hose
Once the shank end is fully threaded onto the capping end, you are finished with that end of the hose. Repeat the process using your other fitting on the other end of the hose.
Here’s a video I made of the process with my buddy, Jake Penner, doing the camera work.